Texpert

How to Measure Thread Consumption?

If you lack the experience to calculate the thread consumption for a specific garment, you can refer to the values included in the following table, which account for a 5% waste factor.

[see chart]

Thread Consumption Measurement Table

This table is a good starting point, but it should be noted that consumption may vary due to factors such as design, garment size, fabric thickness, thread tension during stitching, machine settings, etc.

Garment	Yards
Blouse	92.9
Bras	27.3
Men´s briefs	54.6
Boy´s briefs	43.7
Men´s shirt	131.2
Boy´s shirt	82
Girl´s nightgown	60.1
Ladie´s nightgown	109.3
Shaping panty	38.2
Shapewear	103.8
Skirts	109.3
Men´s sweater	87.4
Women´s sweater	76.5
Denim jeans	213.2
Pantyhouse	32.8
Women´s panties	71
Girl´s trousers	142
Men´s trousers	295.2
Boy´s trousers	76.5
Ladie´s trousers	175
Handkerchief	5.4
Men´s pajamas	213.2
Boy´s pajamas	109.3
Women´s pajamas	153
Boy´s sport shorts	27.3
Men´s sport shorts	76.5
Women´s sport shorts	49.2
Boy´s shorts	38.2
Ladie´s swimsuit	82
Gentlemen´s suits (two pieces)	524.9
Women´s suit (two pieces)	399
Girl´s dress	98.4
Ladie´s dress	213.2
Boy´s coat	164
Women´s coat	546
Men´s coat	656.1
Children´s bathrobe	164
Women´s bathrobe	216
Men´s bathrobe	273.4
Men´s boots	43.7
Kid´s tshirt	76.5
Women´s tshirts	87.4
Men´s tshirts	76.5
Belts	8.7
Quilts	109.3
Ties	8.7
Duvets	109.3
Shit´s collar	8.7
Knitted vests	235.1
Wool vests	87.4
Skirts	131.2
Pillowcase	10.9
Men´s cap	109.3
Children´s cap	87.4
Raincoats	328
Gloves	32.8
Blankets	21.8
Tablecloth	54.6
Swimming trunks	120.3
Sleeping bags	328
Slips	65.6
Gentleman´s hat	54.6
Children´s hat	27.3
Car upholstery	689
Children´s shoes	10.9
Women´s shoes	21.8
Men´s shoes	27.3

Which Needle Should Be Used?

Maintaining an appropriate relationship between the needle size and the thread size is crucial for minimizing sewing problems.

Most needles are designed so that the width of the eye and the thread guide groove (slot) are directly proportional to the needle`s diameter. Using an improper relationship between the thread size and needle size can lead to inefficiency in the sewing operation.

A simple test can verify the proper relationship: pass a thread through the needle and tilt it at a 45-degree angle. With a slight movement of the thread, the needle should slide down freely, driven by its own weight.

The smallest needle that can move in this way through the thread is recommended, unless the specific sewing operation requires a larger needle size due to excessive bending when entering the fabric.

It may be necessary to use a larger needle in operations where needle deflection occurs due to the nature of the operation.

When larger needles are required compared to the recommended thread size, it is possible to find needles on the market with eyes and slots of smaller diameters than those normally corresponding to their size, in order to maintain an adequate needle/thread relationship.

[see chart]

Thread Consumption Measurement Table

This table is a good starting point, but it should be noted that consumption may vary due to factors such as design, garment size, fabric thickness, thread tension during stitching, machine settings, etc.

Product	Claudia Name	Tex	Metrica	Singer
Claudia Short fiber Polyester
	Cal. 120	24	65	9
	Cal. 100	30	75	10
	Cal. 80	40	90	14
	Cal. 70	60	110	18
	Cal. 30	80	120	20
	Cal. 15	105	140	22
Multiwist Polyester Multifilament
		18	60	8
		24	75	10
		35	80	12
Reflex Embroidery Thread
	Reflex	27	75	10
		27
Claudia Core Core Spun Thread (Poli Poli)
		24	75	10
		30	75	10
		40	90	14
		60	110	18
		80	120	20
		105	140	22
Claudiafil Rigit Filament
	n/a	15	60	8
	n/a	25	65	9
	50	40	90	14
	30	50	100	16
	8	75	120	20
	0	150	150	23
Multiwist Filament for Labels
		8 Set	60	8
		8 Comp	60	8
		8 Torc	60	8
		11 Torc	60	8
		17 Set	60	8
		17 Comp	60	8
		17 Torc	60	8

How is Thread Size Measured?

Thread size is measured using the TEX number.

The TEX number is obtained by weighing 1000 meters of undyed thread. This is a direct numbering system, meaning that the larger the number, the thicker the thread size.

Typically, the TEX number is recommended for comparing thread sizes of different constructions.

Why Does Thread Break While Sewing?

Thread breakage is a significant issue in a sewing plant because it disrupts production, affects quality, and can reduce profits and efficiency for the operators.

Thread breakage can be caused by several factors:

Improper threading
Incorrect thread for the operation
Needle heating
Defective needle
Improper needle placement
Inadequate relationship between thread size and needle
Worn or defective thread guides or eyes
Poorly adjusted machines
Poorly adjusted tension regulators
Inadequate relationship between the needle plate hole and needle size
Improper handling during operation
Misalignments in the machine`s feeding times
Flagging (vertical movement of the fabric with the needle, affecting loop formation)
Thread quality defects

What to Do If the Thread Breaks in All Operations and Types of Machines

a. Check if there have been changes in the type, size, or supplier of the thread.

b. Review the quality of the thread in aspects such as knots, neps, twist, etc.

c. See if the thread feels weak, dry, or rough when pulled through the machine parts, or if its elongation is satisfactory compared to other threads.

Verify the quality of the fabric being sewn to determine if there have been changes in the type, supplier, weight, or hardness of the fabric.

Determine if the thread breakage occurs in all colors and models or only in a specific color and style.

[See recommendations to solve these problems]

Recommendations:

Use a thread cone from different batches or lots.
Check if the machine is threaded correctly.
Ensure the thread is being pulled freely from the cone and not getting stuck in any guide or pin. Also, make sure the thread is not falling off the cone and getting trapped at the cone base or the thread stand post. Each thread cone should be placed directly under the eye of the thread guide on the thread stand to allow the thread to come out freely. If the thread lifts the cone and does not come out freely, increase the distance between the top of the cone and the thread guide on the stand.
Replace the needle with one of the appropriate size and type for the thread and the operation being performed.
Ensure the needle is installed correctly, both in alignment and extension. Check if the pins or thread contact surfaces are defective or damaged. All parts involved in stitch formation (hooks and loopers) should be highly polished to be free of edges that could damage or cut the thread.
To achieve a properly balanced stitch, use the minimum thread tension. Adjust the thread guide pins, take-up levers, etc., to handle the thread correctly so that minimum tension is required.
Check the clearance between the needle and presser foot. The needle plate hole should be approximately twice the diameter of the needle.
Review the feed timing, which can affect the amount of tension needed for a correct stitch. In most machines making 301 stitches (straight stitch), the feed timing is correct when the feed dog stops at the furthest point from the operator, just as the needle enters the fabric. If the feed dog moves too quickly, more needle thread tension will be needed to form the stitch.
Ensure the machine is properly adjusted for the thread being used. In straight stitch machines, the hook timing can be slightly advanced to allow the thread to exit the hook faster, reducing the tension needed to form the stitch.
Conversely, if the thread is not forming a good loop and breakage occurs because the thread is being struck by stitch-forming parts, it may be necessary to retard the hook timing so the needle has more time to form the loop.
Ensure the machine is feeding correctly with uniform stitch lengths.
A damaged or misadjusted feed system can cause loss of material speed as well as poor feed timing, leading to needle damage and thread breakage.
Check the needle plate in chainstitch machines and ensure the needle plate hole is larger than the stitch length so the previous stitch loop is not trapped between the needle plate and presser foot.
Check for flagging, which is the vertical movement of the fabric with the needle, affecting loop formation. The fabric should be held between the presser foot and needle plate, except when the feed dog is moving the fabric.
Use the correct combination of fabric and sewing operation.
Ensure the needle plate hole and presser foot are not too large, causing the fabric to flag with the needle. If using synthetic threads, check for excessive needle heating. If the thread is melting, use a smaller needle or one with special coatings to reduce friction. Install a cooler on the machine ensuring the airflow is directed at the needle. If coolers are not available or the thread still melts, switch to a cotton-covered thread or 100% cotton thread. When backstitching, ensure the feed dog and presser foot are suitable. The thread can get caught when the feed dog drops below the needle plate level.
Ensure the feed dog teeth are not too sharp to cut the chain but able to grip the thread and move it out of the needle plate and under the presser foot when taking the stitch.
Observe how the operator handles the machine to ensure they are not causing the problem.
Prematurely lifting the presser foot or pulling the chain to the side instead of back are examples of how operator handling can cause thread breakage.

What to Do If the Thread Breaks Mainly in One Operation and Type of Machine

a. Check if there have been changes in the type, size, or supplier of the thread.

b. Ensure that the correct type and size of needle are being used.

c. Verify that the appropriate machine and/or equipment are being used for that operation.

d. Confirm that the machine is properly adjusted.

e. Check if there have been changes in how the garment is handled during the operation.

[See recommendations to solve these problems]

Recommendations:

Use a thread cone from different batches or lots.
Check if the machine is correctly threaded. Ensure the thread is being pulled freely from the cone and not getting stuck in any guide or pin. Also, make sure the thread is not falling off the cone and getting trapped at the base of the cone or on the thread stand post.
Each thread cone should be placed directly under the eye of the thread guide on the stand to allow the thread to come out freely. If the thread lifts the cone and does not come out freely, increase the distance between the top of the cone and the thread guide on the stand. Replace the needle with one of the appropriate size and type for the thread and the operation being performed.
Ensure the needle is installed correctly, both in alignment and extension. Check if the pins or thread contact surfaces are defective or damaged.
All parts involved in stitch formation (hooks and loopers) should be highly polished to be free of edges that could damage or cut the thread.
To achieve a properly balanced stitch, use the minimum thread tension.
Adjust the thread guide pins, take-up levers, etc., to handle the thread correctly so that minimum tension is required.
Check the clearance between the needle and presser foot. The needle plate hole should be approximately twice the diameter of the needle.
Review the feed timing, which can affect the amount of tension needed for a correct stitch. In most machines making 301 stitches (straight stitch), the feed timing is correct when the feed dog stops at the furthest point from the operator, just as the needle enters the fabric. If the feed dog moves too quickly, more needle thread tension will be needed to form the stitch.
Ensure the machine is properly adjusted for the thread being used. In straight stitch machines, the hook timing can be slightly advanced to allow the thread to exit the hook faster, reducing the tension needed to form the stitch.
Conversely, if the thread is not forming a good loop and breakage occurs because the thread is being struck by stitch-forming parts, it may be necessary to retard the hook timing so the needle has more time to form the loop.
Ensure the machine is feeding correctly with uniform stitch lengths. A damaged or misadjusted feed system can cause loss of material speed as well as poor feed timing, leading to needle damage and thread breakage.
Check the needle plate in chainstitch machines and ensure the needle plate hole is larger than the stitch length so the previous stitch loop is not trapped between the needle plate and presser foot.
Check for flagging, which is the vertical movement of the fabric with the needle, affecting loop formation. The fabric should be held between the presser foot and needle plate, except when the feed dog is moving the fabric.
Use the correct combination of fabric and sewing operation.
Ensure the needle plate hole and presser foot are not too large, causing the fabric to flag with the needle. If using synthetic threads, check for excessive needle heating. If the thread is melting, use a smaller needle or one with special coatings to reduce friction. Install a cooler on the machine ensuring the airflow is directed at the needle. If coolers are not available or the thread still melts, switch to a cotton-covered thread or 100% cotton thread.
When backstitching, ensure the feed dog and presser foot are suitable. The thread can get caught when the feed dog drops below the needle plate level.
Ensure the feed dog teeth are not too sharp to cut the chain but capable of gripping the thread and moving it out of the needle plate and under the presser foot when taking the stitch.
Observe how the operator handles the machine to ensure they are not causing the problem.
Prematurely lifting the presser foot or pulling the chain to the side instead of back are examples of how operator handling can cause thread breakage.

What to Do If the Thread Breaks on Only One or Two Machines

a. Check if there have been changes in the type, size, or supplier of the thread.

b. Ensure that the correct type and size of needle are being used.

c. Review if the operator or the machine has had a history of sewing problems.

d. Make sure that the operator`s handling is not contributing to the thread breakage.

[See recommendations to solve these problems]

Recommendations:

Use a thread cone from different batches or lots.
Check if the machine is correctly threaded. Ensure the thread is being pulled freely from the cone and not getting stuck in any guide or pin. Also, make sure the thread is not falling off the cone and getting trapped at the base of the cone or on the thread stand post.
Each thread cone should be placed directly under the eye of the thread guide on the stand to allow the thread to come out freely. If the thread lifts the cone and does not come out freely, increase the distance between the top of the cone and the thread guide on the stand. Replace the needle with one of the appropriate size and type for the thread and the operation being performed.
Ensure the needle is installed correctly, both in alignment and extension. Check if the pins or thread contact surfaces are defective or damaged.
All parts involved in stitch formation (hooks and loopers) should be highly polished to be free of edges that could damage or cut the thread.
To achieve a properly balanced stitch, use the minimum thread tension.
Adjust the thread guide pins, take-up levers, etc., to handle the thread correctly so that minimum tension is required.
Check the clearance between the needle and presser foot. The needle plate hole should be approximately twice the diameter of the needle.
Review the feed timing, which can affect the amount of tension needed for a correct stitch. In most machines making 301 stitches (straight stitch), the feed timing is correct when the feed dog stops at the furthest point from the operator, just as the needle enters the fabric. If the feed dog moves too quickly, more needle thread tension will be needed to form the stitch.
Ensure the machine is properly adjusted for the thread being used. In straight stitch machines, the hook timing can be slightly advanced to allow the thread to exit the hook faster, reducing the tension needed to form the stitch.
Conversely, if the thread is not forming a good loop and breakage occurs because the thread is being struck by stitch-forming parts, it may be necessary to retard the hook timing so the needle has more time to form the loop.
Ensure the machine is feeding correctly with uniform stitch lengths. A damaged or misadjusted feed system can cause loss of material speed as well as poor feed timing, leading to needle damage and thread breakage.
Check the needle plate in chainstitch machines and ensure the needle plate hole is larger than the stitch length so the previous stitch loop is not trapped between the needle plate and presser foot.
Check for flagging, which is the vertical movement of the fabric with the needle, affecting loop formation. The fabric should be held between the presser foot and needle plate, except when the feed dog is moving the fabric.
Use the correct combination of fabric and sewing operation.
Ensure the needle plate hole and presser foot are not too large, causing the fabric to flag with the needle. If using synthetic threads, check for excessive needle heating. If the thread is melting, use a smaller needle or one with special coatings to reduce friction. Install a cooler on the machine ensuring the airflow is directed at the needle. If coolers are not available or the thread still melts, switch to a cotton-covered thread or 100% cotton thread.
When backstitching, ensure the feed dog and presser foot are suitable. The thread can get caught when the feed dog drops below the needle plate level.
Ensure the feed dog teeth are not too sharp to cut the chain but capable of gripping the thread and moving it out of the needle plate and under the presser foot when taking the stitch.
Observe how the operator handles the machine to ensure they are not causing the problem.
Prematurely lifting the presser foot or pulling the chain to the side instead of back are examples of how operator handling can cause thread breakage.

What Causes Seam Puckering?

Seam puckering or wrinkling refers to the shrinkage of the seam after the sewing process or after washing. Seam puckering is more common in woven fabrics than in knits and occurs more frequently in tightly woven fabrics.

These wrinkles are typically caused by one or more of the following factors:

What is Metamerism?

Metamerism is a term used to describe the phenomenon where two colors appear identical when viewed under one type of light but look noticeably different under a different light source.

Faqs

Contact